If you're reading this you're looking for flooring--or thinking about looking for flooring and, failing a magic wand, hoping for some guidelines to simplify the process. If you're renovating, flooring is just one of many decisions you need to make. And face it, even if you're not renovating nine times out of ten a new floor means new room decor so be warned--new paint, trim and window treatments are soon to follow.
Budget, lifestyle, room use/traffic patterns and taste are the main considerations to help you navigate a world of choice. Let's consider each one in turn.
Flooring prices that meet your budget
Is money no object? Or are you juggling preferences and practicalities within clear spending limits? Here's a very general rule of thumb: medium grade installed carpet or vinyl runs about one-third of the price of hardwood or ceramic installed in the same space; installed laminate is roughly two-thirds of the price. That said the variety of quality and choice is seen in the range of floor pricing--installed vinyl can be anywhere from $1.40 to $6.50 a square foot, installed laminate from $2.50 to $7.50 and installed hardwood from $9.00 to $12.00.
Of course, if you're handy and undaunted at the thought of doing your own installation all bets are off. You can save a lot of money as long as you know what you're doing, have the requisite time, skill, tools, patience and understanding roommates. (Remember, your work encroaches on their evenings, weekends and holiday time too.)
Brands and warranties also factor into budget considerations. Basically the longer the warranty period, the better the floor and the higher the price. You do get what you pay for so if you want flooring that will last, look for a decent warranty along with brand recognition. Recommended brands are mentioned in the lifestyle section below.
Flooring that suits your lifestyle
Are you a growing family, on your own or a couple? Do you entertain alot? Are you planning to move in the near future or putting down roots? Do you have the time and inclination to vacuum often or is the broom your best friend? Do you have pets? (In a tank or fur-bearing? Bigger than a guinea-pig? Do they get the run of the house? Indoors, outdoors or both?) The answers to these questions will give you a sense of what flooring is suited to your needs. Consider the following pros and cons.
Carpet is warm, comfortable and cushy, usually well-warrantied and stain resistant. A lower grade will show stains, wear and tear quicker than a higher quality grade, and Berber makes a great choice for kids and pets. Regular vacuuming and spot-cleaning will keep your carpet in good shape but here I have to admit to a personal bias. Vacuuming is not my hobby and I've yet to meet a rug that stands up well over time to furballs, pet hair and pet odours. (Though I do recommend the industrial wet/dry shop-vac if you have dogs--we had 3.) Recommended brands--Richmond, Shaw, Coronet, National. For stain resistance, look for the Stainmaster Seal.
Vinyl makes a practical cushioned floor for a bathroom, hallway or kitchen. It doesn't hold odour and it's easy to clean. It comes in a huge variety of patterns and looks, mimicing ceramic and even hardwood. While vinyl is surprisingly durable, with the current trends towards hard-surface flooring few choose it for a family or living room. We inherited vinyl tile flooring in our living area and it made a good-looking, resilient covering for several years. Recommended brands--Armstrong, Tarkett.
Laminate is a hugely practical, popular flooring choice. Plank flooring comes in every colour, pattern and finish imaginable--your floor can look like bamboo, heritage oak or highly polished hardwood. Ceramic and cork are also available on a laminate tile tongue and groove backing for ease of installation. Durable, easy to clean, scratch and stain resistant, laminate can chip if heavy objects are dropped with a lot of force. Mop up spills right away--laminate does not do well in the wet. Recommended brands--Pergo, Laurentian, Armstrong, Wicanders.
Ceramic tile makes a beautiful, practical choice. Available in a variety of tile sizes for floors, detail work and backsplashes. Ceramic is breakable and it isn't cushy underfoot--if you put it in the kitchen, use a non-slip mat in the standing area. Recommended brands--Casa Roma, Centura, Olympia Tile.
Hardwood is a classic flooring favourite. If you're concerned about scratches and markings go with a harder hardwood--oak, maple, cherry or bamboo. Eventually all hardwoods will mark, but marks are a characterisitic of wood and floors can always be refinished. The variation in pattern and colour that natural hardwood provides is timeless. Recommended brands--Bruce, Laurentian.
Something green? Bamboo hardwood is harvested from the bark of the tree, which replenishes in about 5 years. It takes 23 years to replace a mature oak tree--and bamboo is 23% harder than oak.
Flooring that fits your room use and traffic patterns
What room are you updating with a new floor? How do you use the space and who uses it most? Does your family spend a lot of time there or is it a high-traffic, pass-through area? High-traffic pass-throughs show wear more quickly so invest in a quality floor cover with a good warranty. While there are no hard and fast rules, the following is a list of common choices by area:
Bathroom - vinyl, ceramic, laminate
Kitchen - vinyl, ceramic
Living Room - carpet, laminate, hardwood
Family Room/basement/games room - carpet, laminate, hardwood
Study - carpet, laminate, hardwood
Bedroom - carpet, laminate, hardwood
Hall - carpet, vinyl, laminate, hardwood
Entrances - ceramic, vinyl, laminate
Stairs - carpet, laminate, hardwood
There's no accounting for taste
Taste is the indefinable element that often overrides every other consideration. Unless you're moving, you'll live with your choice for a long time so you'd better love it. Limit the number of people involved in making the final decision to two, and then figure out which options you both like. Be prepared: the person with more passion for style, color and fashion often sways the vote. In our household when we find something we both love we buy it--that's why we're finally trading in the vinyl tiles for bamboo hardwood! (That is, after the requisite paint and trim updates are complete. Yours truly is having too much fun painting out the old floor along with the walls!)
Marion Taylor is a writer and video-maker living on the shores of Mississippi Lake with her husband John. John owns and operates a retail flooring store; together they've combined skills and resources to create how-to-flooring videos. For information about their video on Installing Laminate Flooring click on the following link: http://www.taylorscustomflooring.com/laminate-video
Flooring Choices - How Do You Decide?
DIY Laminate Flooring - Install Beautiful Floor Yourself
Inspection of Materials and Subfloor
When you have decided to try your hand at DIY laminate flooring, make sure that you have equipped yourself with all the necessary tools and equipment to ensure the completion of your project at the soonest time possible. When you purchase the laminate flooring, make sure that you buy enough with several extras to cover any mistakes you might incur while laying down the flooring and to set aside a few for minor repairs afterwards. Ensure that the subfloor has been cleaned and leveled flat, as debris and dirt do affect the resulting quality of your work. Store the laminate flooring inside the house for several days prior to installation in order for these materials to get used to indoor environment. Inspect them for any damages and discoloration and return any unfit products so as to protect your warranty.
Installation Steps
Determine how you want your floor to be oriented and measure the total space of the room. It would also help if you place the tiles in the first row without gluing them yet, so as to see the best fit you can get. It is also advisable to leave a small space between the flooring and the wall to allow expansion. Glue is applied to secure the flooring boards to each other while a plastic tape is utilized to secure the seam. The tape can be removed an hour after the placement of laminates, while excess glue can be wiped out with a clean cloth. To facilitate the placement of the last laminate board of the row, use a pull bar.
Additional Tips
There is no guarantee that won't make any mistakes when doing DIY laminate flooring though these tips would help. Make sure that there are no gaps between laminate boards or tiles to ensure that water does not seep in and cause rotting of the underlyer. Remember to be gentle when placing the flooring, using the tapping block so as to avoid damaging the edges. If you are doing this activity for the first time, do the floors of private spaces, such as bedrooms, first to ensure you get adequate practice for laying out laminates in more public parts of the house such kitchens and living room. When finished, take the time to install matching and complimentary moldings so as to get a professional look in your work.
Safety Precautions
Always ensure protection of body parts when you are doing DIY laminate flooring, especially when you are still an amateur. This includes donning a pair of goggles and wearing gloves at all time, particularly when you are using a saw. Ensure the longevity of your hard work by keeping water and other liquids off the floor and putting felt pads on your furniture legs.
Find out more hardwood floors cleaning tips by visiting http://www.thehardwoodfloorguide.com, a popular hardwood flooring website that specializes in using recycled wood flooring.
Laminate Flooring - The Many Benefits
Laminate flooring is increasing in popularity very quickly, and with good reason. The benefits of laminate flooring are many.
Beauty of Laminate Flooring
Let's start with eye appeal. Laminate flooring is just plain beautiful. The look of a wood floor is one that has wide appeal, and adds a warm natural and welcoming look to a home.
Laminate flooring offers many choices in wood tone. Oak has been a very popular look, but there are many more to choose from. You can choose a Brazilian Cherry for a medium warm tone, or a Santos Mahogany for darker rosy tones, Mocha Oak for a darker rustic look, or Maple for it's pale beauty. These are just a few examples of the wide variety of choices that are available.
Laminate Flooring Cost and Durability
Laminate floors are not hardwood floors. Let's get that out of the way right up front.
Laminate flooring is the gift of technology. With all the advances made in manufacturing and processes, we are blessed with many types of flooring today that are far superior to flooring available in former years, and laminates are included in the list.
The advantage to laminate flooring is that it offers the beauty of wood, but without many of the drawbacks of hardwood floors. While hardwood floors are the Cadillac of flooring they don't come without their drawbacks, which is maintenance and cost.
Hardwood floor are just that. They are made of hardwood. They can be acquired factory finished, or they can be finished after installation. They are very pricey, and in almost all cases need to be professionally installed. They do require special care and maintenance.
Laminate floors on the other hand, are a creation. What you see when you look down at a laminate floor is actually a picture of wood. The very top layer is clear and gives the product durability. Under that is the picture of wood, and underlying that is medium density fiberboard for stability, and finally under that layer is backing that offers even more stability.
Though laminate flooring is new compared to hardwoods, linoleum, and tile which have been around from a hundred to several hundred years, laminates have been on the market and in homes for a long enough period of time to prove themselves, and they just get better all the time.
A laminate floor, properly cared for, will last and look beautiful for many years, and for much less money invested as compared with a hardwood floor.
Installing Laminate Flooring
Aside from the reduced cost of the product itself, laminates can be installed by the homeowner saving further money on the installation process. Most laminates today are glueless, tongue and groove installations and can be installed in a day or two depending on how much flooring is being installed.
Once the installation is finished, it is indeed finished. There is no need for a finishing process such as you might have with hardwood. The floor is ready to be walked on.
Laminate Flooring Ease of Care and Maintenance
Care of a laminate floor is pretty simple. Keep it clean. Really, that's it. As with any flooring material, dirt should be swept up on a regular basis with a soft broom or vacuum, and it can be damp mopped. Damp is a key word here. Don't overdo the water. Just a damp mop will do the job. Wipe up any spills as they occur, and placing mats in front of doors or sinks is a practical thing to do just as with any other flooring.
More information is available on laminate flooring as well as tips on tile floors
Laminate Flooring Installation - 10 Rules For Installing Laminates In Bathrooms
Laminate flooring installations have evolved to such an extent that even bathrooms and kitchens are no longer too much of a challenge for this interior design idea. Provided that you follow installation instructions closely, a do it yourself enthusiast can confidently create a brand new bathroom look in the space of a few hours. What should you keep in mind when doing a laminate flooring installation in a bathroom or kitchen?
Many suppliers are reluctant to recommend a laminate flooring installation in a bathroom, because of the moisture risk involved. However, most quality laminate flooring products are now highly resistant to water and warranted for use during bathroom and kitchen remodeling projects. The only caveat is that you don't deviate from the detailed installation instructions. This is one area where you may want to consider calling in professional help.
1. Shower Floor No-No: Never attempt a laminate flooring installation in an area with a floor drain, such as a shower floor. This type of flooring also isn't recommended for use in a steam room, due to the extremely high humidity level.
2. Water Woes: The main culprit that leads to floor damage such as buckling or blistering, is standing water. If there is any spillage or overflow, it is vital that you dry the floor immediately. Cleaning a laminate floor should never involve more than a damp mop. A wet wash is a straight road to trouble.
3. Ultimate Underlay: In a bathroom or kitchen you need to cut the underlayment even with the top of the flooring after installation, so that it can be sealed with the floor.
4. Joint Joinery: The tighter the joints lock during a laminate flooring installation, the better their ability to resist moisture. Don't manipulate the joints too much. Every time they are loosened and re-locked, they will have a looser fit. This has to be avoided at all costs during bathroom and kitchen installations.
5. Glued To The Task: You may not need to do this in the rest of the house, but manufacturers recommend that in bathrooms and kitchens you glue the joints to seal them properly. Apply the glue to the top of the tongue only. As you click the joints together, a thin bead of glue will show on the surface. This must be wiped off with a damp cloth, before the glue dries. This procedure is only necessary during a bathroom or kitchen laminate flooring installation.
6. Setting The Seal: Around the perimeter of the room you will use 100% mildew-resistant silicone caulk or a product such as Pergo sealant according to the manufacturer's directions. One tip that is often given is to apply masking tape parallel to and just off the edge of the laminate plank. You can then fill the expansion space, remove any overflow carefully with a putty knife and gently remove the tape. Every joint and expansion space must be protected in this way to prevent moisture and humidity from seeping into the core of the planks used during the laminate flooring installation.
7. Trimming The Tub: A variety of decorative color-coordinated molding options are available for use around tubs and basins. The expansion space first needs to be filled with caulk. The molding trim can then be placed in the caulk while it is still wet. The joint between the tub or basin also needs to be treated with caulk.
8. Mind The Moldings: Always use a T-molding between the bathroom and the adjoining area. This will also be sealed with caulk.
9. Do A Dry Run: A bathroom laminate flooring installation is slightly different due to the use of caulk and glue. Manufacturers therefore recommend that you leave the room to dry for up to 24 hours before using it.
10. Cabinets Come First: Install any bathroom of kitchen cabinets before doing the laminate flooring installation.
Remember that any laminate flooring that is damp or wet becomes extremely slippery. Be extra careful in a bathroom. All in all, if done with care and the requisite sealants, a bathroom laminate flooring installation can be most successful and durable.
Awnings-and-Blinds.com - Don't start your laminate flooring installation before reading the laminate hardwood flooring installation secrets article. The author, Rika Susan also offers more flooring information in the Harmonics Glueless Laminate Flooring article at Awnings-and-Blinds.com. Copyright of this article: 2007 Rika Susan. This article may be reprinted if the resource box and hyperlinks are left intact.
Transform Your Old-Looking Hardwood Floors
You might think your old hardwood floor looks really ugly and dingy. Back in the 60's and 70's, many homeowners thought their hardwood floors were so ugly, that they would cover them up with carpet.
In the modern day, that would be a sin, but it happened a lot back when wall-to-wall carpet was the craze. We often find older homes with old worn out carpet that covers seemingly faded and weathered hardwood flooring. Don't be deceived, the resurfacing process of hardwood floors and its potential beauty will have you patting yourself on the back for years.
Restoring hardwood isn't easy, but it is definitely worth the trouble. If your floor has been covered with carpet, then be sure to remove all the carpet and tack strips. Then you will need to see if there are any nail holes that need to be filled.
If you are resurfacing your hardwood floors because they are old looking, then you will start out with a heavy duty sander called a drum sander. You will be able to rent this sander at any rental stores or building centers because they are very popular and frequently used. To strip off the finish you will need 24 grit sand paper on the drum sander. A drum sander goes in a straight line so you will need to head toward a wall and go in a straight direction until you come to the wall, then you will need to turn around and head for the opposite wall. Do this until the entire floor is done.
You don't need to be worried about sanding completely through your floor because most hardwood floors, especially the older floors are about 3/4 "thick. You should be able to sand your hardwood floor over a dozen times before it wears through.
You will need to do a second sanding to smooth the rough gouges made by the finish-stripping sand paper. This will also remove any of the remaining patches of finish left behind. You can accomplish this with 36 grit sand paper. Go over the floor the same way you did with the heavier sand paper.
You won't be able to get very close to the walls with the drum sander so you will need a smaller sander to sand next to the walls and corners. An orbital hand sander will work really well for this. You will use the same grit of sand paper for the hand sander as you will use for the drum sander at each phase of the sanding process.
The third step of the sanding process will be the smoothing phase where the sand paper will sand out all the rough cuts from the heavier sand paper. You will use 60 grit sand paper for this. This grit of paper won't strip off any remaining finish materials so you will have to make sure that you get it all with the second sanding.
The fourth sanding phase will be where the light grit sand paper brings out the wood grains even without the final finishes. You will use 80 grit sand paper for this step. You will notice how the old hardwood sheds its old appearance for a new vibrant, modern display.
The final sanding phase is very important, yet it is a step often omitted by flooring contractors. You will use 150 grit sand paper with a small hand sander. Be sure to sand with the grain. This will make a huge difference in the deep luster shine and the appearance of the wood grains.
After you have completed the sanding phases, you will then need to sweep the floor clean of all dust and wood particles. This won't be quite enough though, because you want the wood grains to be completely exposed and free of dust so they soak up the finish better and deeper. If you have an air compressor you can spray the floor with air to get the dust free. If however you don't have an air compressor, then you can use a vacuum on the lowest surface setting to suck the dust out. Be sure to make slow thorough passes with the vacuum.
Next, you will start the first application of the floor finish. There are many finishes to choose from, but most flooring specialists' choose a water-based Urethane because of its characteristics. It dries quickly and the odors won't kill you. The first coat will go on in a copious fashion. You can use a brush or a floor brush on a pole. This will help you get an even coat.
Let the first coat dry for at least 12 hours and then apply the second coat. The third coat should make the final finish appear as a deep finish that makes the wood grains stand out almost as if in 3-D.
Once the floor has dried, you will notice that it is very hard and durable. The shine and the wood grains are new looking. The floor doesn't even look anything like the old floor. That is part of the restoration process. Enjoy it. Spread out on the floor and give it a hug. That's how I feel after so much work, yet so much reward.
Larry Angell is the author of Sweat Equity, building a house at half cost. His experience working with low income families to attain affordable housing has started him on a crusade to help other people learn how to build homes for a fraction of the cost. He teaches the advantages and benefits of becoming new homeowners with high equity.
Factors that Constitute a Quality Laminate Floor
Laminate floors range in price from 0.89c s/f to as much as $7.99 s/f. So why should you spend the big bucks, when at the end of the day they all look the same?
First let us analyze the warranty factors. An entry level laminate floor which sells for in the region of 0.89c s/f to $1.39s/f probably comes with a warranty ranging from between 10 to 15 years, as opposed to a better quality laminate that sells for more and carries a warranty ranging from 25 years to lifetime. A comprehensive laminate warranty covers the following aspects of the floors performance: factory defect, normal wear and tear, fading, staining, denting and water resistance. A lower end warranty might not cover all of these aspects, and although the advertised warranty states ten years, this might refer to manufacturer’s defects only, whereas the performance aspect of the warranty might only cover a five year period. Also consider that although the wear and tear aspect of a laminate warranty covers a certain period, this does not reflect the fact that the floor might start to show wear and tear or loose its original luster after a few years of use.
Today, most laminate floor surfaces are treated with Aluminum Oxide, which makes these floors highly durable in terms of scratching and denting. However not all floors are created equal in that certain laminates receive up to nine coatings of aluminum oxide, whereas a lower quality floor might only be treated with a few layers of Aluminum Oxide. This translates into a scenario where these few layers of Aluminum Oxide will wear through in a short period of time, and conversely a floor with additional coatings will perform better when subjected to heavy foot traffic, and for a longer period of time.
Laminate floor cores range in thickness from 7mm to 12mm, with a thicker core offering more stability, making it less likely to buckle if subjected to high levels of moisture in the air, as well as offering a floor that is quieter to walk on. The other aspect of laminate floor cores is the ability of the floor to resist swelling when affected by water and sub-floor moisture. A good quality laminate floor core is treated with water repellent chemicals, which protect the floor from swelling when breached by water or excessive levels of sub-floor moisture. A good core should be coupled with a tongue and groove configuration that is also treated with water repellent chemicals, such as impregnated wax, which will prevent topical liquid spills from penetrating through to the laminate core.
Joint integrity refers to the ability of the tongue and groove locking mechanism to withstand the weight of heavy objects, as well as perform over the life of the floor. The locking mechanism of a good quality laminate floor is designed to withstand the weight of heavy household furniture and fit tightly together negating gapping or separation. Since the advent of glueless laminate floors, many manufacturers have invested large sums of money in research and development in search of a locking mechanism that will not fail even when subjected to abnormally high levels of impact force or weight. The most successful configurations, in terms of binding strength and durability are patented and sold to other manufacturers.
Lastly, when purchasing a name brand laminate floor, one is not paying merely for the name, but for the quality of the materials, precise levels of engineering, and many years of research and development invested in the design and manufacturing process.
This flooring article was written by Barry H. Get more tips and techniques at: Online Laminate Flooring Resources
